When fitting a lighting coil to any machine keep in mind the following:
The machines are normally not laid out to run lighting. Most coils supplied have a single wire output, the other side of the coil is grounded. First make sure there is a good ground-connection from the engine to the frame. It is a good idea to take the ground for the lighting system off the engine itself. For this you will need a long wire with a ring-terminal at the end to put underneath one of the engine-bolts that clamp the engine-halves together. Before fitting this lead, clean up the area on the casing underneath the ring terminal. This lead is the best ground-connection you can have; run it to the lights.
The single output wire is the feed for the lights. Preferably connect it up straight to the bulb(s). If you want to use a lighting switch, make sure you have the regulator connected up behind the switch (see: Diagram). This will prevent the regulator from overheating when the lights are not on. The regulator itself is normally a single-wire type. Basically, what it does is short-circuit the excess power to ground. If you connect it before the switch and you donít run the lights, all the power delivered by the lighting coil will be drawn to ground by the regulator, which will get quite hot.
If you need a tail light, connect it up parallel to the headlamp.
In case youíre fitting a single add-on lighting coil, make sure the yellow output wire cannot touch the flywheel. In some cases you need to tap a thread in the original backplate, take your time to drill and tap carefully.
When youíre fitting a lighting stator that includes a new ignition coil, check the wiring instructions in the package and connect the wiring colours up accordingly. When connecting the new ignition wires coming from the stator onto the original wiring-loom make sure you have proper connections. It is often best to use crimps instead of soldering, because the solder wonít flow on the older wires of the loom. NEVER wrap the wires together with a piece of insulation tape around it !
Check that the whole lighting system has perfectly good connections. This will save you loads of trouble in the future. Use decent crimps with shrinking tube, or if youíre using new wires, solder the connections and use shrinking tube again to insulate them.
PLEASE NOTE: Electrical components are non-returnable, unless they can be tested by the manufacturer, at your cost.
These coils produce enough power approx. 50W to supply a basic system, NOT systems with high wattage Halogen lamps.
The more expensive coils are priced as such, because they are supplied as a complete unit which includes ignition coils and lighting coils, wound together.